This One’s for NOLA—and the Ramps That Followed

We spent Easter in New Orleans this year—my first time in the city, and TJ’s… well, one of many. Outside of Oaxaca, NOLA might be his favorite place on earth. The food, the music, the layers of culture and chaos—it’s like the city itself cooks with its whole chest. We ate crawfish, shrimp, gator, turtle, and oysters every way they come, soaked up all the inspiration, and came back ready to fry, char, and ramp everything in sight.

Because right on cue, the ramps showed up.

Ramp season is an unofficial holiday upstate. Foraging for them is like the opening ceremony of spring—and God knows we love New York in the spring. No other green brings TJ as much joy. Every April, he gets that look and says it like he’s waited all year for the moment: “’Tis the season for ramps.” It’s pure, it’s funny, and honestly? It’s pretty damn cute.

So this month’s recipes lean into the obsession. There’s a smoky ramp salsa verde we’re serving over grilled mackerel at our Soho House West Hollywood pop-up. A bri…